Hampkins Hill Road, Chiddingstone, Kent, TN8 7BB
Website: Larkins Brewery
About the brewery
With a name that calls to mind the idyllic Kent countryside featured in HE Bates’ Darling Buds of May, Larkins Brewery was founded in Rusthall in 1986, on the outskirts of Tunbridge Wells, by owner and managing director Bob Dockerty. Dockerty, a commercial hop grower and keen home brewer, began brewing when his family acquired the Kentish Ales brewery, moving to the Larkins family farm at Chiddingstone in 1990.
Hops had always been grown on the farm, but when Dockerty bought the brewery and was setting up the operations he didn’t have enough time to tend to the hops. However, some dozen years ago, he decided to start hopping again as he was having difficulties sourcing the hops he wanted to use from elsewhere. Four acres of wirework and poles were still in place on the farm, so he replanted the hops, using them in his beers ever since.
Three varieties of hops – Early Choice Goldings, Bramling Cross and Whitbread Golding – are grown on the four-acre site yielding nearly 1,500kg of annually. These give head brewer Chris Taylor all the flavours and aromas he needs to create the Larkins range of beers which include three standard and two seasonal beers, fermented with Larkins’ unique, carefully guarded strain of its own proprietary ale yeast, since 1993.
Regular beers
Best Bitter (ABV 4.4%) is a Kentish-style best bitter, a rich, fruity and slightly-sweet ale. Notes of summer fruits and caramel give way to a long bitter malt finish.
Larkins Pale (ABV 4.2%) is a full-flavoured Kentish-style pale ale, packed with Larkins Farm-grown hops and with not even a hint of grapefruit, according to the brewery.
Traditional (ABV 3.4%) is the brewery’s staple bitter and best seller. Described as a “smooth Kentish-style tawny session bitter”, it delivers a pleasing balance of Larkins hops and malt, producing a surprisingly characterful beer for such low ABV. An entirely sensible drink that is a staple of the houses where it is available.
Regular seasonal beers
Green Hop Best (ABV 4.0%) is produced from hops that are brewed on the day they are picked (hence “green hops”). This seasonal delicacy is only available for a couple of weeks each October.
Porter (ABV 5.2%) is available from November to March. A rich, satisfying porter that has won many an award and has the honour of being included in esteemed beer writer Roger Protz’s 300 Beers to Try Before You Die. The drink itself has an intense aroma of roasted grain, pungent hop resins and bitter chocolate. Dark dried and vinous fruits coat the palate, balanced by roasted malt and peppery hops. The finish is long, dry, bitter and satisfying. A beer to be taken most seriously!
Fancy a pint?
Larkins Ales can be enjoyed in the following Kent pubs: Charcott (The Greyhound), Chiddingstone, (The Castle Inn), Cowden (Queen’s Arms), Edenbridge (The Rock Inn and The Kentish Horse), Penshurst (The Spotted Dog and The Bottle House Inn), Sevenoaks (The Windmill) and Tonbridge (The Leicester Arms and The Little Brown Jug).
Tours and Take Aways
Brewery tours are not currently available.
Beer can be bought directly from the brewery in 5L mini kegs (8-9 pints), mini pins (18 pints), poly pins (36 pints) and firkins (72 pints). Orders must be placed by phone on 01892 870 328.
Reviewed by Kentish Mann April 2021